Surf: Cobblestone, soft, waist to shoulder high.
We started out the morning one one boat checking one of my favorite spots, but sadly the break was flat. I’m sure if we waited long enough, there would be a set, but at 30 min or more apart, it’s a big risk.
We headed back, then drove over an hour to another boat. This time it was breaking.
This is a beautiful spot and we were fortunate to have it all to ourselves. On a normal day, it’s supposedly packed. Shallow, rocky, and urchin covered, I imagine it’s pretty intimidating with any kind of crowd or with real size. I had a few takeoffs I wasn’t so sure I could clear the rocks and this was a pretty easy day.
I’d brought my hull expecting we’d be going to the right hand boat spot and not the left, but the hull worked just fine. I know people say hulls aren’t supposed to surf well backside, but for me they surf the same as any other board. I guess I’m not really doing anything fancy anyway, so it doesn’t feel that odd? Not sure.
The ride back was tricky. I was nodding off and I’m sure it had to be rough for Ed driving with all of us asleep. When we got back to the house, the surf was looking really nice. I was too fried and tired to get on it. I know they say never walk away from a good wave, but man… I was so beat.
I’ve also been getting demolished by mosquitos this trip so I busted out the mosquito net. I’m not sure it really helped, but hey, it adds a little flair to vacation sleeping.
