Surf: 3.0 ft at 11.4 s from the WSW at 253°
After watching Andrew catch little peeling waves all by his lonesome, we headed south to check conditions. It was mostly an excuse to use the new tunnel. The surf over there was pretty meh so we came back to crash Andrew’s party.
I got a few little ones. I’m so surprised at how small of a wave this board can catch. All this paddling for little waves is certainly getting me back into shape.
Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.9 from the NW at 305°
After some unpleasant logistical confusion this morning, I finally made it to the beach. After the work/life/whatever stress I’ve had lately, I was not thrilled to spend valuable surf time driving aimlessly through the fog. In short: arg grumpy unstoked me. Grr missing waves GRR Chris and Brien have to go to work after like 45 min. Grr.
Oh wait. I don’t have meetings. I don’t have to go to work. I’m going back out there. So, yeah, whatever responsibility.
Going back out was actually a really good idea. I got 4 waves straight away. It was actually pretty exciting. There was even a little section I made it around, just like regular ole surfing. The first wave I got in, bottom turn all normal like, then the top turn I was looking at the wave, but the board wasn’t going back down. It felt stuck. I was leaning and leaning and not really going anywhere. Then I stepped back and sheepishly realized that yes, this board has all kinds of fins and no, you can’t turn it like a longboard where you can just soul arch your way to wherever you want to go.
Once I did that, things got pretty fun.
Then the tide changed and I had to go to work.
Surf: 4.6 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 292°. Winds 9.7 kn – 11.7 kn from the NW.
I’m pretty sure if anyone, anywhere in the world says “Let’s go surfing for my birthday” the ocean immediately switches to suck. The surf was lousy. I splashed around. It was meh, but I got a couple waves so that’s something. Yay.
Surf: 6.6 ft at 16.0 s from the W at 273°
It was raining like crazy this morning, but now that I had the right fins, very little was going to stop me from taking the fish out.
I checked the buoys and saw 6.6@16. I checked the beach and saw maybe waist high waves and plenty of flatness. Hmm.
Thankfully there was just enough going on to try out this board.
Paddling: It paddles! It’s not as easy as my bigger boards, sure, but it’s not crazy hard! Yay.
Catching waves: It does this too! It was so small today I was worried I wouldn’t get much, but I got some. Nice.
Duck diving: WAY easier than all my other boards. 6@16 managed to roll on by and I made it under easy peasy.
Turning: I need to learn this! There wasn’t a ton of wave action to really try this, but I can already tell it’s gonna be fun. 😀
Stylin: Oh yeah, it’s styling:
