Surf: 3.9 ft at 12.9 from the NW at 305°
After some unpleasant logistical confusion this morning, I finally made it to the beach. After the work/life/whatever stress I’ve had lately, I was not thrilled to spend valuable surf time driving aimlessly through the fog. In short: arg grumpy unstoked me. Grr missing waves GRR Chris and Brien have to go to work after like 45 min. Grr.
Oh wait. I don’t have meetings. I don’t have to go to work. I’m going back out there. So, yeah, whatever responsibility.
Going back out was actually a really good idea. I got 4 waves straight away. It was actually pretty exciting. There was even a little section I made it around, just like regular ole surfing. The first wave I got in, bottom turn all normal like, then the top turn I was looking at the wave, but the board wasn’t going back down. It felt stuck. I was leaning and leaning and not really going anywhere. Then I stepped back and sheepishly realized that yes, this board has all kinds of fins and no, you can’t turn it like a longboard where you can just soul arch your way to wherever you want to go.
Once I did that, things got pretty fun.
Then the tide changed and I had to go to work.