Surf: 3.9 ft at 8.3 s from the NW at 310°
Today’s surf was bigger and softer than it’s been. Crowded too. With the softness I was really fighting to get into waves. I managed to get a few but they all felt slow.
I had a duck dive that went wrong and I kicked my fin. My whole foot is blue. Having so many fins so close to me means I’m constantly kicking them. Owwww.
After struggling a while on the bigger wave, I snuggled up to a small left and picked up a few more fun ones.
It’s always the little waves I catch easy, not the big ones. It’s silly, but I’ll take it.