Surf: 4.6 ft at 12.9 s from the NW at 322°. Low tide.
Wow. It’s been a couple rough weeks being injured and unable to surf. And also really walk around. Ow.
Went back and forth as to if I should take it easy my first day back and log it, or go all out and take the fish out. Around midnight I decided FISH! I waxed it. I went to put the fins on…and the fin set I had wasn’t quite right. Oops. It was a front right fin, two back fins, and one center fin? It probably would have surfed kinda okay, but I was worried I wouldn’t be able to take em back used…or something. It was 1am, whatever.
So I took my longboard out. Waves were kinda crummy, but catchable. I got some fast fast rides before everything closed out. Just happy to be back in the water.
Crazy out of shape, but hopefully I’ll be back into the swing of things in no time.