Surf: 7.6 ft at 16.0 s from WNW at 296° Low and incoming tide.
After Wednesday I had pretty low expectations and a pretty high frustration level.
I brought my longboard and I’m glad I did. Fun lefts! Nothing perfect, but fun. Plus it doesn’t hurt to feel competent. Oh and there was a whale. And sunshine.
The whole morning got me thinking. There were plenty of closeouts today. Sure it was a little smaller than wednesday and there was a bigger chance of the wave staying open, but still closed out for sure. This problem I’ve had with closeouts started with me getting clobbered last winter over and over again. It seems to be worse when I’m on a smaller board, probably because I can’t get into waves as early and have to deal with a steeper drop. But it seems like it shouldn’t be THAT much easier on a log. I’d really like to figure this out. As much as I love riding my longboard, I’m getting tired of the frustration on my shorter boards.