Fat lip

2013-LM-02-13

Surf: 6.9 ft at 12.9 s from WNW at 289°. Low, outgoing tide.

I snuck out early for a sunset surf, hoping conditions had cleaned up since yesterday. They had not.

There were corners here and there, but for the most part the waves closed out. I didn’t get into anything on the shorter board, so I paddled around, ducking here and there. One failed duck dive, my face went right into the rail. Oww. Thankfully it only bled for a few moments, and didn’t puff up too bad. It didn’t help with me feeling competent, but otherwise no harm done.

Stayed out till it was almost dark, rode some whitewater in.

This shorter board stuff is so hit of miss. Some days I’m on, the rest, skunked. So frustrating!