Surf: 11.2 ft at 16.0 s from the WNW at 297°
Last week’s winds seem to have teamed up with this morning’s unfavorable tides to make the surf less than exciting looking from the shore. I’d been out of the water for a week, so I passed on the usual spot and went looking for something working a little better.
That’s not to saw what I found was any better. It was passable and passable seemed worth getting wet for.
For the most part, waves were warbly, reflecting, or closed out, but I managed to sneak in one really nice drop.
I’ve been poking around on my Vaquero lately, picking up mushy beach break waves rather that waves with a little more push. This wave had some push. I forgot my little board could go that fast.
I took a wide bottom turn, way out in front of the wave, leaning super far into the face, just holding on by my toes. The board snapped up into the pocket like those little hulls do. Now this would have been the makings of a _great_ wave (for the day that is), but as I set up to take the line, the whole wave started pitching over and I jumped into the face hoping to avoid get smacked by the lip. Not only did it not work, but I should’ve just gone for it. Ahh well.
Oh, the guy in the photo I took for today’s surf, made the wave, got a nice drop, then claimed it big time. 😀
It made me smile. On days like today you need all the wins you can get.