Surf: 4.3 ft at 12.9 s from W at 277°
Ugh. I woke up feeling like craaaaap. Chris couldn’t surf and I’d overslept so Brien was already at the beach and suiting up. I wasn’t feeling another round of noodle arms at Ocean Beach so I buried myself under the covers and sulked back to sleep.
Around the tide change I decided I needed to get over my grumpiness and go to work or get out and surf before the new swell and winds hit. I drug myself out of the house and down to the beach.
Sun. So much sun. Sun and whales jumping. Sometimes midday surfing just seems too perfect to be real (that’s what the crowds are for, to keep the fantasy in check. Winds too if you’re really unlucky.)
I jumped into my wetsuit superquick and found a spot in the crowd.
Waves were mellow but with some fun long rides. I caught plenty on the 6’10, falling on my face a few times due to lack of wax. But I did manage a few competent swooping ones. Wheee.
Tide came up and headed to work.
Still not feeling 100%, but a little better.