Surf: 4.9 ft at 16.0 s from WNW at 295°. High tide.
Hmm.
I was hoping there was enough energy in the water to get my favorite little spot working despite the tide. There wasn’t. Instead it was a mix of long lulls, broken up by HUGE closeouts and small peeling waves. I’d decided to give my little board another shot, but was getting nowhere.
I get into such a headgame when it’s closing out. I’m fine on the big board (which is way more of a battering ram in those conditions,) but on the little board I’m stuck. I just don’t commit and as a result, I don’t get into waves. I paddled around, trying to keep warm, before heading south.
Facing total skunkage, I swapped boards with Andrew. He had a rad 8’4 hot gen hully thing. Super smooth. I finally got something. First time riding leashless and of course I blew it and lost the board on a closeout set. Sigh. No harm done except to my pride. Fun to watch Andrew cruising around on my 6’10.
I gotta figure out whatever’s not working right between me and that board. I’m at that point where I have to decide if I keep frustrating myself trying to get past the holdup, or go back to my 9’4 for the winter so I feel like I actually know how to surf. Hmm.