Surf: 3.0 ft at 14.8 s from NW at 307°
After Monday’s ice cold morning, a late shift warm and sunny surf in small waves sounded absolutely perfect.
The surf has been small and clean so we headed to Montara. It was a short, but nice little sesh. Clean, peeling, knee to chest high waves. Lots of fun on the longboard.
I’ve finally been getting some good waves again. I’m not sure if it’s the longboard or that I’m working harder on committing to waves or that I’m finally starting to get my thyroid stuff back in check so I have more energy.
I got one really nice wave that I thought for sure I was too far inside to get. I went for it and it paid off. Fun, fast and the wave of the day for this short little session. Yeeew. I still chickened out on that last little section in the shallows, but overall, it seems like progress.
Saw a sea lion napping in the sun on the beach. Everyone’s loving the sunshine after so much cold.