Surf: 6.9 ft at 10.8 s from NW at 305°. Low Tide.
I probably should have quit while I was ahead, but of course I went for another surf before the Holiday. Today was a mix of long lulls and some stomping closeouts. Uff.
I got plenty clobbered almost right off the bat. Was in the wrong place looking at a close out folding over and no were to go. I tried using some of my free diving course techniques. I got a big breath. I tried not to blow out any air while tumbling around. I kept telling myself: “I’ve got at least two minutes. I’ll be okay.” But in the whipping around and, what I’m pretty sure was me getting sucked backwards over the falls, I was still pretty scared. Coming up, I couldn’t really get a breath. It felt like there was a big bubble in my gut and I couldn’t get much in. The second wave, I wasn’t feeling as confident. The third, even less. I belled in, hacked for a while, then headed back out.
Once back out, I didn’t make much of myself. I missed a lot of waves.
I dunno. I’ve been having a ton of trouble. I’m pulling out of waves too early, thinking I’m getting into them too late. I think I’m just scared about getting stomped. I don’t really know what to do about it.
But I managed one decent wave in, so that’s something!