Surf: 8.5 ft at 10.8 s from WNW at 293°
I spent some time watching the storm surf over the weekend. Saturday was almost tempting (although huge and crowded, it was smooth and looked great) but Sunday had that mixed up brown sludge look that made me question the sanity (and sanitation) of a Monday surf.
Thankfully, low expectations were exceeded. I had some fun rides and a little bit of improvement. This morning’s session included a few little cutbacks (getting quicker on these) and got in to plenty of waves. It’s getting much easier, especially at our little pointish left. Still having some trouble in the beach break, especially with closeouts. On the log you can get in early and squeak out a little bit of wave in a closeout. Sitting further inside feels more like I’m going to get whalloped than I’m going to squeak out a ride. Since some days closeouts are all there is, I’m still working on it.