Surf: 7.6 ft at 13.8 s from WNW at 292°
Wow, that was some unsafe surf this morning. Waves weren’t big, current wasn’t strong, but there were quite a few people in the lineup who weren’t paying attention or just plain didn’t know how to surf. I had some very close calls with a gal who would look me straight in the eye as I was up and keep paddling, once I got close, she couldn’t pull out of the wave in time and went crashing over. Yikes. More than one person paddled ONTO Chris’s board, including that gal.
For a moment I thought about calling a time out and explaining to a few of these folks about right or way and about how to pull out of a wave without going over the edge. I dunno, it seems a little too bossy. I’ve been in their shoes. That gal had some serious attitude (which I hope I never did when I was a kook.) Those folks were really dangerous though. I hope they figure things out before they hurt somebody.
We paddled more north and away from the fray. I didn’t get much. My cough is back and I was starting to feel plain miserable. Headed in to work.
I’ve had great sessions with friendly, courteous people at that spot. But I’ve had many days like this where it was absolute chaos. I tend to battle the northern closeouts unless there are less than 10 people on it, which isn’t often.
Most of the time that spot is mellow and folks either know what they are doing, or are very considerate. Most mornings I know at least half of the people waiting for waves and everyone takes turns or calls each other into waves. This was one of those days when the rest of the beach was a whompfest so the lineup trended towards inexperienced folks afraid to surf anywhere else.
It’s tricky. I don’t want to embarrass someone by calling them out, but I also don’t want to get cracked in the knees by an out of control funboard. Sometimes north is the only way to go :p