Sunday

Surf: 5.3 ft at 10.0 s from the NW at 310° High to outgoing tide. No wind.

I had one of those surf bigger better waves vs acknowledge I’m tired and surf smaller waves mornings. Smaller waves won, but smaller waves delivered. Clean, nicely shaped chest high waves and plenty of sunshine. Got into a few fun ones even with the high tide. On the days when I”m actually making progress with the little board, it’s super fun. I got some fast rides, practiced my cutbacks, and zipped all around. Towards the end of the session (as the crowd filled in and my arms got tired,) I was more frustrated and missing waves, but otherwise fun.

This board’s really made me realize that 90% of the time I’m surfing a left, with the exception of Santa Cruz, everywhere I go I’m going left. I’d tried to shift spots to get a right, but once I got over there everything set up to go left again. I’m hoping when the sandbars form in the next rainstorm or two, they’ll give me a little peak to practice my displacement hull slide on. 🙂