Surf: 4.6 ft at 10.0 s from W at 274° Shoulder to head high. Clean.
There’s a certain set of conditions I wait for. I look for a small forecast and light winds at Ocean Beach with things falling into place nice and early in the morning. Typically it’s just on the edge between sounding like it’s going to be terrible and sounding like it’s going to be awesome.
I’m not exactly confident on the shorter board. After yesterday’s disappointment, I was hoping for clean little cruising waves. In the dark I could hear it wasn’t little. As the sun started to rise, I could see that it wasn’t little. It was clean, but with some good size. I gulped and suited up.
Whenever I surf ocean beach, I’m anxious the night before, I’m anxious on the drive over, anxious suiting up, paddling out, waiting for waves. There’s a quote I heard recently “‘If you’re nervous, you’re afraid you’re going to fail. If you’re anxious, you can’t wait to get out there and succeed.’ -Robert Griffin III”
I think I’m somewhere in the middle.
Paddled out to find some really beautiful waves. So great to watch other folks zipping by on clean head high waves holding up. And that’s mostly what I did. Watch. Watch and chicken out.
Josh kept yelling GOOOOOOOO!!!! and I kept…not going. Or I’d paddle, feel like I was already too late and pull out when I should have gritted and put a little more paddle into it.
I still got a few and they were still really really fun, but I’m struggling. Thankfully the weather was amazing and the folks I was surfing with were stoked enough to keep me stoked. Gotta get back out there and gooooooooooo!!!!