Surf: Chest to Head high. Clean.
After yesterday’s timid approach, I wanted to spend my last morning in Mexico giving my favorite spot my all.
I paddled out, I went for a wave, I almost didn’t make the wave and opted for my patented Linda Mar mush move: jump on the nose and get in a good two handed paddle to push you over the edge. It worked.
Keep in mind, I had not yet actually ridden my Vaquero on a wave over waist high. And now, I’m standing on the nose on a head high wave realizing that these boards go really REALLY fast.
Holycrap.
I stepped back mid way through the drop and laid on the rail trying to make the bottom turn. I don’t think I’ve ever leaned so far into a wave without falling over. I made it. SWOOOOSH.
Top turn SWOOOOSH.
Rocks OHNO.
Kickout! WHEW.
I finally got a real wave! Yesssss.
Alan, a regular I’ve seen on our last few trips down, yelled “Nice one, Barbie Doll!” and laughed. “Oh, you got a little board now! Yeah? You gonna get all the waves now!” Ha.
I got another fun swooping wave at the main peak, then headed over to where Aaron was picking off lefts.
I struggled a little bit there for a while. We didn’t have a ton of time. We had to get back, pack up, and hit the airport.
After a few failed attempts to get into something, I got set up perfectly for a nice long steep wave. I got in and the board was off like a rocket. I was barely holding on. I saw Alan on the shoulder. He threw me a shaka and pretended to snap a pic. I hear Aaron on the inside cheering. So, so stoked.
I headed in, happy to have finally got a few good waves in Mexico. 😀
Additional note. If you step on like, a dozen sea urchins on your way in, def get those spines out before sitting on an airplane for several hours. All the spines I got right away: fine. The one I didn’t get around to until after I landed in SF still hurts almost two months later.