Familiar breaks

Surf: Waist to Head high. Little windy.

Ahh. Finally away from Sayulita to our old familiar break and some surf time with Ed.

He’d been out a while when Aaron and I hiked in (we had some logistical trouble with the truck) but we showed up just in time to see Ed getting a fun looking wave.

I still struggled a little bit, including nearly taking out Ed in a duck dive gone wrong, but did manage to finally get something fun. Aaron got a really nice one too. I saw him zipping by on his fish.

Mostly I spent the whole time being a scaredy cat. Worrying about duck diving. Fussing about bigger waves. I’m still a little traumatized by last winter. This break is soooo forgiving, there’s no reason for me to treat it like Pleasure Point or Ocean Beach. Sigh.

Ed went on and I got a couple more over at one of the lefts. The last one in, I went to get out at a spot I’ve gotten out at a million times. I waited for the water to get still and saw it was all sea urchins. The whole rock shelf was just black. I shuffled out through a little trench, happy to still have all my toes intact.

We hit up the Oxxo for some Electrolit. Mexico’s adult version of Pedialyte. After frying myself this whole trip, I knocked back a coconut electrolit and ice cream so fast. I’m def getting overheated out here.

We ran into Steve and Jesse who’d just finished surfing La Lancha. They were headed off to look at a boat slip in the harbor. We grabbed some beer and headed back to the house for pool time and dinner. The lightning over the sea looked really beautiful and the tuna steak dinner was, of course, lovely.

Sure, I didn’t get any really substantial waves. Surfing with good people in a spot you love (plus electrolit!) does wonders for a grumpy mood.

Getting Frustrated

Surf: Knee-Shoulder high. Glassy.

Pout snarl growl snarl. Okay okay, taking a new board on a trip might not have been the best idea. I’m really struggling to get into waves and having a hard time with the crowds a Sayulita. Yeah, I know it sucks when you’re break is overrun by tourists, but man, between the kids and the tourists, sitting inside was getting scary. Sitting further outside I plain wasn’t getting in to anything.

I don’t think I’m paddling properly. I feel like I’m getting close to getting into the wave and just not making it. There’s a lot of timing work I need to do and being on a new board and an unfamiliar break is not the place to do it. I’m also getting cooked in this heat. Even early in the morning I’m roasting. It’s not helping me keep things in perspective.

Leaving the beach, I was waiting for Aaron to buy some pastries when I felt a weird tug on my board. I look back to see a street dog gumming away at my tail. I stared at it, and it quit with no damage to the board, but that was just enough to put me over the edge to really grumpy.

Time to surf somewhere else.