Surf: 5ft @ 8s from NW at 307°
Nice little morning sampling various breaking waves along to beach. Also nice to see lots of folks I haven’t in a while, usually because they headed to Ocean Beach or I headed to Montara on the small summer days. Little bit glassy with plenty of mush on the incoming tide (plus plenty of closeouts as per usual), BUT plenty of actual waves too.
I got a few swoopy little squiggly waves and one mostly hilarious cutback. I put so much rail in I was nearly laying flat on my back. Just when I thought “I _might_ make this turn!” I blew it trying to come back around. So close!
Towards the end of the session, I was furiously trying to paddle back out for one more. Things were starting to get a little more mixed up and I Was huffing and puffing. After about 10 minutes of paddling and making no progress, I heard HEY! Brien had swam out to me to let me know he and Chris were going on. I sheepishly turned around and bellied in. Gotta get back into paddle shape before winter.