Clean Lefts

Surf: 4ft @ 10s from NW at 318° Calm.

Caught a few lovely later-shift waves this morning. The crowd was focused on a little stretch of fairly log-like waves, but Chris and I headed North for another peak. We found a nice bunch of clean, mellow waist high peeling waves.

Our quiet spot soon attracted attention and a small crowd formed. A group of guys camped out right infront of me on the inside. I heard one of them say: “Are you sure we should sit here? That girl is getting like, every wave and we’re totally in her way.” My first thought was “well yeah, you _are_ totally in my way” but feeling generous, I decided to wait a set out. One they got a couple, everyone shifted around nicely and folks were sharing waves peacefully with minimal drop ins and chaos.

I spent some time working on sneaking up the nose. Nice to have some smooth waves again. 🙂