Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from SSW at 242° Low tide. West wind. Messy, barely breaking.
One of those “all forecasts and buoy readings suggest marginal to no surf but let’s go looking anyway” mornings. Checked a few spots. With the low tide, wind, and mix of tiny short period NW swell and tiny medium period SSW swell there wasn’t much on offer.
Thankfully it was better in the water than it looked from the cliff, but it was still pretty not great out there. Things were rideable and I got a few that were fun, but it was mostly a game of dodging shallow draining closeouts just to get a second or two of face time.
I’ve also been surfing just terribly, which didn’t help. I blew plenty of waves. I’m not sure if I’ve just forgotten how to surf a longboard, or it’s conditions, or summer funk. I did manage to make myself laugh pretty hard by falling a way I’d never fallen before: I had my tail pretty solidly in the curl and was trying to walk up. The thing was the wave was pretty much just breaking on the tail and the board was bouncing like crazy. I got bucked forward and towards the shore like a springboard diver. Splosh. Ah, summer.