Choptara


Photo by Brien

Surf: 4ft @ 8s from NW at 305°

Oh man. Crowded, windy, choppy and sloppy. But somehow, still rideable. I think every desperado for miles wound up at the same stretch of beach this morning. When the crowd finally left, I managed to get a few barely passable waves before heading off to work.

Shortboard Shift Change

Surf: 4ft @ 6s from WNW at 299°, light winds.

More windswell, but with low expectations, sunshine, and a few inconsistent sets, it turned out to be a nice little morning.

Little bit of softness mixed with a little bit of steepness.

The shift change was pretty amazing. Went from sunshine and a handful of longboarders, to foggy and a good sized crowd of shortboarders.

Back in California

Surf: 6ft @ 9s from the NW at 308°, light wind.

Nice to come home to fun, fair waves after a few weeks of travel. Sure, there were plenty of those familiar mush bombs and close outs, but friendly folks and sunshine (and those one or two fun waves that held up) made it a lovely morning.

Also nice, got a few kind words from someone who’d read this little surf journal. It means a lot to hear folks are reading. I’ve gona back and forth with wether or not to keep this site going. It was originally a way to share my surf photos with my very tech savvy grandmother and a fun way to learn css and php. It’ll admit, it’s a little embarrassing sometimes and I occasionally have trouble keeping up with my surfing habit. Still, it’s nice to scroll through pictures of surfy days.

For the handful of folks that do read my little site, is there anything you’d like to hear more about? or anything you’d like to see done differently?
Thanks! 😀

Borrowed board

Surf: Ankle to knee high. Glassy.

The roaring north winds finally backed off and the remains of the storm swell were actually looking a little bit fun. Without a surfboard I boogied boarded around for a while before a neighbor offered up his board.

I was pretty excited, it looked like one of the sandbars might still be working, but things quickly fizzled. I spent the next hour horribly kooking up in the small shallow shorebreak. Man, it was embarrassing. Sigh.

What a rough summer. I feel like I can barely surf at all anymore. I really hope to get back into a groove before fall.

Boogie Boadring

Surf: Waist – Chest high. Disorganized. Warm!

A storm swept through during my first few days back home on the lake. I watched the mid-lake buoy jump from around a foot or two to finally max out at 13ft at 9s. Naturally, I didn’t want anything to do with that kind of ridiculousness.

Wes got a photo of some of those waves hitting the breakwall in the city:

Cool to look at, but after last years pummeling I was happy on land.

When things calmed down a little, Wes and I picked up some boogie boards and goofed off in the shorebreak. Yes, we have life vests on. The rip currents on the lake are fierce and with mom worrying on shore, I was happy to wear one. Plus it’s an extra layer of padding when you slam into the very shallow sandbar. I got a mouth full of sand after skidding along the bottom. Plech.

Water’s warm. About 80°F 😀

Kookup

Surf: 2.3 ft at 13.8 s from SSW at 242° Low tide. West wind. Messy, barely breaking.

One of those “all forecasts and buoy readings suggest marginal to no surf but let’s go looking anyway” mornings. Checked a few spots. With the low tide, wind, and mix of tiny short period NW swell and tiny medium period SSW swell there wasn’t much on offer.

Thankfully it was better in the water than it looked from the cliff, but it was still pretty not great out there. Things were rideable and I got a few that were fun, but it was mostly a game of dodging shallow draining closeouts just to get a second or two of face time.

I’ve also been surfing just terribly, which didn’t help. I blew plenty of waves. I’m not sure if I’ve just forgotten how to surf a longboard, or it’s conditions, or summer funk. I did manage to make myself laugh pretty hard by falling a way I’d never fallen before: I had my tail pretty solidly in the curl and was trying to walk up. The thing was the wave was pretty much just breaking on the tail and the board was bouncing like crazy. I got bucked forward and towards the shore like a springboard diver. Splosh. Ah, summer.

August

Surf: Thigh to Waist+, poorly organized. Light to breezy sideshore wind. Low Tide. 5.3 ft at 7.1 s from NW 309°

Shuffling into the low tide shallows I saw a big ole orange and purple crab. It scuttled off pretty quick.

The surf was better than Sunday, but still not so hot. I got a decent wave and a handful of drop and washy waves, but nothing great. Lately I’ve been feeling like I’m surfing terribly. I’d love to blame it on conditions, but I dunno. I’ve been blowing quite a few waves on the take off, missing waves…it’s a little discouraging.

After splashing around a while, I took one in. While bellying the last bit into shore, I saw what was probably the same orange and purple crab shifting around. Dude was probably spending the morning bodysurfing.

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