Summer South

Surf: 5ft @ 17s from SW 177° Very low tide. Light winds.

When it’s good in Santa Cruz, it’s really good. It’s also really crowded. I brought a longboard figuring I’d be picking off the mushier scraps for off peak that no one wanted. I certainly did plenty of that, but wow, the sets were SO long that I was able to grab my own set wave or two. Woooo.

I got three lovely shoulder high to head high waves, all to myself. Nice long rides with some swooping loggy turns. It’s been so long since I took my trifin log out that my first few turns were a little weird. Oh yeah, fins, gotta use the fins. Can’t just hang out up on the nose.

My third lovely wave, I decided to try for a little head dip on the last section. I got a bit of a splash, then went to straighten out as the wave closed out. I fell, no big deal, business as usual, then I saw a bright flash of yellow and realized my board wasn’t safely by my side and was instead bouncing up at my face. Thunk. The board hit my wrist, my wrist hit my head, and all of us went under into the kelpy shallow soup. Thankfully I was fine, just a little embarrassed and plenty sore. I paddled in and cut the session short in favor of some icepack+face time.

Still pretty stoked, all things considered.