Surf: 5.3 ft at 7.1 s from the NW at 318° Light winds. Low incoming tide.
While slightly cleaner than a few other spots we checked, this particular breaking wave was still offering up plenty of short period shiftiness. It seems like lately it’s all been short period shiftiness. 12s would seem pretty nice right about now. The churning inside felt like winter, the disorganized outside was summer for sure.
With the low tide and the nearly overlapping waves, it was a bit more work than our usual haunts. All and all worth it to snag a few chest and occasional shoulder high waves with a surfable bit of shoulder. I’ve spent so much time on my little boards in little waves that I’d forgotten how much lean I needed to make a solid bottom turn on my 9’4 in slightly bigger surf. I got some pretty fun ones, but those were some wide wide drops! Ha!