Surf: 4.9 feet @ 10 seconds. NW (326°) Light winds. Low tide.
Decent little morning. With the low and still falling tide, I didn’t have a lot of hope for good waves. We were joined by a coworker on a project I’ve been working on, so we opted to just paddle out rather than drag him around all morning hunting for something slightly better.
My first wave right off the bat was super fun. I got a clean peeling right that held up all the way. I got some swooshing turns, a little cutback like thing, fun fun. About halfway through my ride I heard THWACK. Looked around, didn’t see anything. I wrapped up my wave and looked around some more. Chris was standing in waist deep water holding a leash with no board. Leash string broke and the THWACK I heard was his log hopping its way into shore. After some minor repairs, all good to go.
A gal in the lineup commented that I had a nice popup and that I made it look so effortless. Aww. Stoked to hear that. I have a hard time with compliments surfing. For the longest time I thought people were saying “good wave!” because I was kooking so hard out there they wanted to offer encouragement. Either way, it’s always nice to hear some good comments from friendly folks. 🙂
The rest of the session was all over the place. As Chris said, it was quite the sampling of Linda Mar: clean peeling waves, whomping closeouts, sun, fog, sometimes crowded, sometimes not, sometimes current, sometimes not… The rest of my waves were drop and wash but still fun enough.