Surf: 5.6 feet at 12.1 seconds from the S (176°) Light south winds. Low tide.
Wheeeeeeeeee. Fun stuff. Not as smooth as some of the other, smaller breaking waves we checked, but plenty fun with a little pep. Lovely peeling Waist-Chest high waves and just enough space between sets not to get pounded.
Beamer and his intern joined us. Beamer was in a shortie (brr) and tearing up the rights on a leashless fish. I watched him make a daring bodysurf down a wave to snag his board after a wipeout. When I went to duckdive, he had it, when I came up it was sproinging away flying fish style. Doh. Fish just love to jump.
Had a peak all to our lonesome for a little while, too. Grey, almost glassy at times, and plenty of waves.
I love these kinds of mornings.