Surf: 3.9 ft at 14.8 s from 218° SSW. Waist high with occasional shoulder high sets. Light Winds
I’ve been house sitting in the Sunset. It’s been lovely. Unfortunately I haven’t felt confident enough on my 7’4 to paddle out alone at the beach, so I swung down to Montara to meet up with some folks. It’s always nice to have someone to laugh with you when you’re kooking things up.
Sunny, warm, and plenty mellow at Montara. I had an exciting paddle out blowing a few duckdive attempts. The waves were pretty soft. I did my share of furious paddling to get into them and actually got a few. Not a lot in the way of turning, but I’m feeling much more stable on this board than I used to feel.
Towards the end of the session, my arms were beat and I just wanted one wave in. I missed wave after wave before finally getting into a right. I got hung up at the lip! I was not going to let this wave go. If I didn’t get it, I was most certainly going to have to paddle in. I heard J-Bird yell “C’MON!!!! YOU CAN GET IT” I threw my weight forward and made the drop. It was a big wide swoop of a drop. I heard J-Bird howling from the shore. YESS!!! I made the bottom turn, got in a little cruise, then swamped my cutback. Still, I’d made it back to shore. Whew.
While walking back to the car, I passed a little girl and her brother on the stairs. She saw me with my blue surfboard and said: “SEE! I told you girls can surf!”
Between the drop and the little girl’s comments, I was beaming. 😀
Super stoked.
