Surf: Thigh to Waist high. Slow. Cold.
Wow. LONG day up north.
I got up early for a morning surf with Chris. At low tide things were a little closed out on top of being very slow. While throwing ourselves into little dumping waves, it looked like the other side might actually be breaking. We took the 1/2 mile long paddle thataways and caught a few more. I think one or two actually counted.
After 3 hours or so, we met up with Andrew who I’m helping learn how to surf. I spent another 3 hours in the whitewater with him catching fun little rides. When I got too tired to surf, I bodysurfed a while and watched Andrew get a few more waves. It also gave me a chance to test out my new earplugs. My doc says I have the very start of surfer’s ear and if I start wearing earplugs now, it shouldn’t get any worse. The plugs are awkward. I can hear everything fine except myself. My breathing is so loud it sounds like I’m out of breath before I even am. BUT, they seem to stay in place and they seem to be keeping water out.
After all that water time, I was BEAT. Beat and hungry and sunburned. Just another successful California day.