Surf: Waist high. Clean. Later a little more closed out.
I took out Ed’s log early while surfing by myself before breakfast. I’m still working on feeling confident on the 7’0. I chatted with some folks in the lineup. A gal from Santa Cruz. A local guy who says he’s working on his cross step because he hops to the nose and it’s just “not classy.” A few folks laughing about how slow the surf was because of the tide. There is only about 6in to a foot of tide swing here, yet every time I go out and it’s the slightest bit slow, someone will say “the tide’s killing it.” High tide, low tide, in between tides. It always makes me smile a little.
After breakfast I took the 7’0 out and hucked myself into closeouts. I’m feeling a little better on the 7’0 but I need to stop making excuses and stick to riding it. Gotta learn! It’s a pretty fun board. I got into a steep drop I didn’t think I’d make. Since I’ve got it as a single fin right now, I did some swishing around when the faces held up a little longer. Fun fun.