Surf: Waist – Chest high. Little bit closed out.
Fun (and slightly ridiculous) evening session. Carl took the big ole epoxy house longboard out leashless for a little bit of mayhem. The one place I did not want to be: behind that boat of a board. The once place I ended up right as a set was coming. Ohhh man. I sprinted waaay of to the side. Nothing happened, but so many years of Linda Mar cleanup sets flashed before my eyes…boards everywhere. Yiiii. A big challenge for me on a shorter board is sitting on the inside after seeing that kind of carnage over and over. Yiiiiii.
After my moment of spaziness, I got a very nice left. Grabbed the rail and did a little hand drag for extra style points. I love staying low on this board. It’s great for grab rail takeoffs on these little waves. Fun fun.
One thing I’m having trouble with is that I’m missing waves. Beamer and Carl pointed out that I’m taking off like I’m on a longboard. I paddle, then I straighten out my arms and lean back and look around (anti-purl technique?) I need to be keeping my weight over my shoulders and pushing down/in to the wave. I’ll get it, I’m sure.
After surf, had delicious chile relleno. Yum. Love the food here. Luis and Alicia are amazing.
Lots of sea turtles out tonight and Venus shining like crazy.
Venus is soooo bright in the evenings. Then again, Mexico is pretty dark.
