Month: May 2012

Posted on

Thursday Evening

Surf: Waist – Chest high. Little bit closed out.

Fun (and slightly ridiculous) evening session. Carl took the big ole epoxy house longboard out leashless for a little bit of mayhem. The one place I did not want to be: behind that boat of a board. The once place I ended up right as a set was coming. Ohhh man. I sprinted waaay of to the side. Nothing happened, but so many years of Linda Mar cleanup sets flashed before my eyes…boards everywhere. Yiiii. A big challenge for me on a shorter board is sitting on the inside after seeing that kind of carnage over and over. Yiiiiii.

After my moment of spaziness, I got a very nice left. Grabbed the rail and did a little hand drag for extra style points. I love staying low on this board. It’s great for grab rail takeoffs on these little waves. Fun fun.

One thing I’m having trouble with is that I’m missing waves. Beamer and Carl pointed out that I’m taking off like I’m on a longboard. I paddle, then I straighten out my arms and lean back and look around (anti-purl technique?) I need to be keeping my weight over my shoulders and pushing down/in to the wave. I’ll get it, I’m sure.

After surf, had delicious chile relleno. Yum. Love the food here. Luis and Alicia are amazing.

Lots of sea turtles out tonight and Venus shining like crazy.
Venus is soooo bright in the evenings. Then again, Mexico is pretty dark.

Posted on

Thursday Morning

Surf: Waist high. Clean. Later a little more closed out.

I took out Ed’s log early while surfing by myself before breakfast. I’m still working on feeling confident on the 7’0. I chatted with some folks in the lineup. A gal from Santa Cruz. A local guy who says he’s working on his cross step because he hops to the nose and it’s just “not classy.” A few folks laughing about how slow the surf was because of the tide. There is only about 6in to a foot of tide swing here, yet every time I go out and it’s the slightest bit slow, someone will say “the tide’s killing it.” High tide, low tide, in between tides. It always makes me smile a little.

After breakfast I took the 7’0 out and hucked myself into closeouts. I’m feeling a little better on the 7’0 but I need to stop making excuses and stick to riding it. Gotta learn! It’s a pretty fun board. I got into a steep drop I didn’t think I’d make. Since I’ve got it as a single fin right now, I did some swishing around when the faces held up a little longer. Fun fun.

Posted on

Wednesday Evening

Surf: The usual waist-chest high. Little rough around the edges from the afternoon wind but glassing off.

We’ve got some new friendly folks staying at the house. They’re adding a few extra days to their trip hoping for this phantom swell everyone says is coming “tomorrow.”

After the crowded morning, I stuck by the house to get a little bit of room to breathe. Things were closing out a little, but I got a few including one screaming fast one down the line. Yeeeew.

Posted on

Wednesday Morning

Surf: Clean and mellow waist-chest high waves, as usual.

I took Ed’s log out at the main peak. It’s amazing how crowded it’s gotten from one year to the next. Last year we saw half as many people, only a handful of Stand Ups. I took the log because I feel more confident on a bigger board and I was going to need that confidence in all those people. Crazy.

Plenty of sea turtles checking out the crowd, too.

Beamer took my board while waiting to get his back from ding repair (dinged in transit, doh!) It’s fun watching friends on your board. I got some fun ones on Ed’s board. You can really stick the tail of that thing into the wave and walk around. I’ve done a little bit of walking around, but nothing I’ve done has felt as glued into the wave as the waves I got today. I snuck way way way up. I should have gone for the nose, but I was worried about dodging in the crowd. Still pretty fun and now I have an idea of what my board should feel like when I’m trying all those fancy longboard moves.

Posted on

Tuesday Evening

Surf: Glassed off. Getting smaller.

It’s been plenty windy during the day, but it still cleans up around sunset. I took the 7’0 for a few waves. I got a nice late drop and surfed till sundown.

Posted on

Tuesday Morning

Surf: Waist-Shoulder High. Clean.

Paddled out early on one of the house longboards. It was glassy and grey with plenty of fun waves infront of the house. After a while, Ed swung by with one of his longboards. It’s pretty beat up, but man is it fun. I could do a fair amount of walking around on it. A couple local kids hooted as I tried to cheat a little five on a left. Fun stuff.