Surf: Chest high.
I paddled out early for a last morning surf on my 7’0. I got three fun long waves before even getting my hair wet. A gal from Texas paddled up to me and said “that was some wave you just got! and you didn’t even get your hair wet!” I blushed a little. I was having a pretty good morning and caught one in. As I got close to shore, I spotted Aaron with a camera. He motioned for me to go back out so he could get some shots. Of course I didn’t get a single wave the whole time he was on the beach. HA.
I came in, had breakfast, then paddled back out in front of the house, just to squueze in a few more waves and make up for my waveless photoshoot.
I’m so glad I paddled back out. I got a handfull of zippy little swooshy waves in the warm sun. Just lovely. I’m very grateful for all the waves on this trip. I hope to get a chance to come back soon.