Day: May 3, 2012

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Thursday Evening

Surf: Waist – Chest high. Little bit closed out.

Fun (and slightly ridiculous) evening session. Carl took the big ole epoxy house longboard out leashless for a little bit of mayhem. The one place I did not want to be: behind that boat of a board. The once place I ended up right as a set was coming. Ohhh man. I sprinted waaay of to the side. Nothing happened, but so many years of Linda Mar cleanup sets flashed before my eyes…boards everywhere. Yiiii. A big challenge for me on a shorter board is sitting on the inside after seeing that kind of carnage over and over. Yiiiiii.

After my moment of spaziness, I got a very nice left. Grabbed the rail and did a little hand drag for extra style points. I love staying low on this board. It’s great for grab rail takeoffs on these little waves. Fun fun.

One thing I’m having trouble with is that I’m missing waves. Beamer and Carl pointed out that I’m taking off like I’m on a longboard. I paddle, then I straighten out my arms and lean back and look around (anti-purl technique?) I need to be keeping my weight over my shoulders and pushing down/in to the wave. I’ll get it, I’m sure.

After surf, had delicious chile relleno. Yum. Love the food here. Luis and Alicia are amazing.

Lots of sea turtles out tonight and Venus shining like crazy.
Venus is soooo bright in the evenings. Then again, Mexico is pretty dark.

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Thursday Morning

Surf: Waist high. Clean. Later a little more closed out.

I took out Ed’s log early while surfing by myself before breakfast. I’m still working on feeling confident on the 7’0. I chatted with some folks in the lineup. A gal from Santa Cruz. A local guy who says he’s working on his cross step because he hops to the nose and it’s just “not classy.” A few folks laughing about how slow the surf was because of the tide. There is only about 6in to a foot of tide swing here, yet every time I go out and it’s the slightest bit slow, someone will say “the tide’s killing it.” High tide, low tide, in between tides. It always makes me smile a little.

After breakfast I took the 7’0 out and hucked myself into closeouts. I’m feeling a little better on the 7’0 but I need to stop making excuses and stick to riding it. Gotta learn! It’s a pretty fun board. I got into a steep drop I didn’t think I’d make. Since I’ve got it as a single fin right now, I did some swishing around when the faces held up a little longer. Fun fun.