Surf: The usual waist-chest high. Little rough around the edges from the afternoon wind but glassing off.
We’ve got some new friendly folks staying at the house. They’re adding a few extra days to their trip hoping for this phantom swell everyone says is coming “tomorrow.”
After the crowded morning, I stuck by the house to get a little bit of room to breathe. Things were closing out a little, but I got a few including one screaming fast one down the line. Yeeeew.
Surf: Clean and mellow waist-chest high waves, as usual.
I took Ed’s log out at the main peak. It’s amazing how crowded it’s gotten from one year to the next. Last year we saw half as many people, only a handful of Stand Ups. I took the log because I feel more confident on a bigger board and I was going to need that confidence in all those people. Crazy.
Plenty of sea turtles checking out the crowd, too.
Beamer took my board while waiting to get his back from ding repair (dinged in transit, doh!) It’s fun watching friends on your board. I got some fun ones on Ed’s board. You can really stick the tail of that thing into the wave and walk around. I’ve done a little bit of walking around, but nothing I’ve done has felt as glued into the wave as the waves I got today. I snuck way way way up. I should have gone for the nose, but I was worried about dodging in the crowd. Still pretty fun and now I have an idea of what my board should feel like when I’m trying all those fancy longboard moves.
