Surf: Head High+ and windy.
Back in Mexico!!! YAAAAY!!
We rolled up in the early evening, surfboards in tow. Warm water, warm air, and big whomping surf. Yiiiii.
Ed said it’d been flat for weeks before this swell moved in. We hugged our hellos and unpacked the gear for an evening surf.
Now I’d brought my 7’0 with the expectation of soft mellow waves to practice on, not steep waves to practice ducking under. I stood on the beach a while, board in hand, heart in throat, trying to get myself prepped to paddle out. I’m not confident on that board and almost left it on the beach in favor of one of the house longboards. Watching Ed, Beamer, and Aaron paddle away I thought: “Well, I came here to learn this board. Time to go learn.”
Sure, the first two duckdive attempts didn’t exactly go so well, but I got into the swing of things, made it out, and got some fuuuuunnnn waves. The lefts were fast so I mostly just held on. Woooohooo. Love that warm water.
