Photo by Chris
Surf: 7.5 ft at 16 sec 290° WNW. Chest-Head High+
I was a little skittish after the run of big days I’d had in SC all spring. Every time a set would line up and I’d see the black wave faces start to build, I ran for it. I guess one too many crushing hold downs will do that. Eventually, after some teasing, I pulled myself together and got a few. I got a handful of nice long swoopy waves before even getting my hair wet. Wheeee.
Chris got a whole 3 seconds of footage from behind me on a wave. 😀 It kinda looks like I can surf.
Saw Chris take the drop of all drops. I didn’t think he was gonna make it, I really hoped he was gonna make it, and then he made it. Woooohooo. I heard a few shortboarders in the lineup say “whoa” quietly as he went by. It was a very steep drop for a 10+ft log.
Wrapped up the morning with some fun little knee-waist high waves over at 38th. I tried to get some shots of Chris, but pushed all the wrong buttons. Almost had a dry hair session.