Surf: Waist-Chest High, mixed up waves.
It’s getting to be that time of year again. The winds are blowing all the wrong waves and the surf looks just plain sad in the morning. This morning was crumbling, closed out with long lulls, and heaps of whitewater, but hey I was there and plenty of other friendly folks were out.
With a little more tide, things shaped up from desperado to rideable.
I’ll admit, plenty of groveler waves and waiting in the wash for a reform that never came, but there were a few actual waves in that mess. I got a handful of long swooping ones that I’d put in the fun column. I love being able to steal something fun out of the mess. I got a few powerful top turns in that I was pretty stoked about. It’s hard to swing that much board around.
Also managed to launch myself off the back of a few waves as they closed out on the inside. Who doesn’t like flying through the air?
Somehow I also did this:
Wheeeeeeee!