Surf: Mellow. Waist-Chest high with long lulls, no wind.
Got a late start on a mellow morning. It was so mellow I took my 9’4 out, which I rarely do since it’s so thick I worry about it in waves that break as heavy as Ocean Beach (even when small!)
Lots of fun waves this morning. I like a good long wave where I have some time to think. I worked on my cutbacks to keep from outrunning the wave. I worked on some exits. Nice day with some nice mellow surf.