Surf: Chest-Shoulder high. Offshore winds. Clean.
I gush about pre-storm surf. Every time the south winds are up and the leading edge of a stormy swell is about to show, I’m swooning over the surf.
Today was the first storm of the year. Light rain and winds in the lineup. Big open waves rolling through. And spray! So much spray.
Got some nice long rides with Chris and Josh. Lots of fun swooping rides battling the wind.
The water was a little junked up from the runoff. Funky bits, sticks, garbage. Not pretty. Skipped the post-surf pasty for a post-surf shot of rum to ward off the cooties.