Photo by Chris
Surf: 4-6ft with some 7+ standouts. Soft. Little bit of texture. Little wind.
Oh MAN was that fun!
I caught a handful of big long waves and watched the sun come up from the water. The tide was high so we were sitting way outside to get into the big softies early instead of the steeper shorter inside waves. With the long lulls and the softness, it seemed like ages before I got my first wave.
That first one was a beeeeeaut tho. Dropping in all I could see was a wall of deep purple. Swooping up for my top turn, the orange gold peeked over the lip. It was quiet. Just me, the wind, and swooping turn after swooping turn. Amazing. The wave was well over my head. Maybe 7? 8?
I got a handful more waves like that, each one a little less purple and a little more gold as the sun came up.
I learned a group of cormorants is called a flight. Fun and educational surf. Superstoked!