Surf: Thigh-Waist+ and Crumbly. Very textured.
I wasn’t going to surf. I had plans to work, do laundry, and other rather dull things. As usual, a little bit of nudging got me out of the house and down to the beach.
Conditions were pretty much not great. Onshore winds, small crumbly waves, and lots and lots of disappointed shortboarders.
Luckily I have a lot of experience surfing junk. ;D
I got a handful of scrappy shoulders in. After one especially long ride doding section after section, another surfer paddled over to me and said “That last ride you got convinced me it was worth paddling back out for one more.”
Made me feel pretty warm and fuzzy on an otherwise cold and crummy surf day. Hopefully my wave didn’t lead the poor dude astray.