Surf: Chest-Shoulder, funky and dumping.
Ahh, there was the skunking I’d expected. Oww.
This little board doesn’t have the heft to punch through waves paddling out, but I haven’t gotten the hang of ducking it (it’s pretty big.) So I took wave after wave on the head. At one point I was pretty sure a seabird was laughing at me as I got hucked over and over. Sigh.
Wound up spending a lot of this morning on the bottom of the sea contemplating life and how I was going to get the sand out of my ears later. (“Never” might be the answer to the ears question.) SUPER funky, jumbled, but with some rideable shoulders that jacked into booming closeouts. C
hris got some cruising big ones. I mostly got wash. Wind not as blustery as other spots I checked, but waves not any cleaner. Sigh.