Surf: Waist-Head high. Lots of closeouts.
Whomp. Yesterday was downright good compared to today. Got a few fun rides in and there was some size/power, but man that soup. Soupy soup soup. Do they make soup out of lemons and closeouts? Cause if they do I had plenty.
I took out my 9’0 thruster since the 9’4 was dinged. It was a great board for today since it’s thinner and it can take a steeper wave. I got quite a few exciting ones pumping through a few quick big carves before outrunning the wash. It’s always fun seeing people’s wide eyed looks when I manage to get a board that big to power through a bottom turn on a wave like that.
Had one pretty harsh wipeout tho. Ouch. I saw the wave just bottom out right about the time I hit a warble. I was pretty close from slamming into my board as it got pounded by the closing out wave. I missed it by a whew inches. Whew.