Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling, glassy, occasional whomp.
Pretty beaut out there. Nice sun, clean waves, lots of action. It was pretty steep for 38th. Saw a few cover ups. Lots of short boarders in the water that far east. I got some nice ones. Chris got a top 10 ride of his life style wave. Nicole got to try out the sweet new board. It’s very fancy.