Surf: waist-head high, glassy with a little chop, long lulls.
Brilliant surf today. Wow. Between La Lancha and my first paddle out at Burros proper, I am completely stoked. Super stoked!
I got so many swooping big rights, it was awesome. Swoop swoop swoop, pumping down the face for loooooong rights. Beaut. Plenty of time to walk all over that big board.
I finally stayed out for a real sunset session. As amazing as dinner always is, I wanted those waves that much more. Brian, Robert and I stayed out well past the crowd and paddled in just after the sun disappeared behind the cliff.
Ed hung out for dinner and drinks. Louis made a bonfire. What a perfect day.