Surf: Chest-Head high. Clean with some whomping closeout sets. South winds.
Woof! What a morning. South winds were doing their south winderly thing. Waves were way up in size from Wednesday morning. Lots of paddling to get my big foamy board through the inside, but worth it. Got one real fun racy left and lots of swooping rights.
Ran into Josh in the lot before paddling out. We haven’t surfed together in a year. Pretty fun being back out in the water again, especially now that I’ve had a year of practice and can go for some bigger waves. đŸ˜€
Chris snapped a few more nice photos:
