Photo by Blam
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high, peeling.
Ed dropped by this morning to take us on a little surf adventure a few minutes up the coast. In the ten minutes or so from the house to the turn out, we nearly lost the boards off the roof AND got attacked by a giant spider hiding in the beach towels. Adventure!
It was one of those dirt path through the brush to a break you can’t see style spots. Beautiful beach, point break.
Kinda funny to be in a lineup with other people after so many sessions on our own.
Caught lots of long soft rights before trying out the faster steeper left. Picked up one successful zippy left, took a few more on the head before a nice set came through. I paddled, I caught it, I blew the bottom turn and rolled with the wave. I surfaced to find my leash snapped and board skipping around on the inside.
Crap.
I’ve never had a leash break before. I wasn’t terribly concerned about being boardless, but being inside swimming around huge reef rocks to get my board under control was a little surprising. Got some help on the inside, snagged the board, took a few more waves on the head. When the set passed, I paddled back out, rigged up some sketchy triple knotted leash attachment and kept on surfing.
Tried out Brian’s hand plane in the beach break. Fun! I can’t imagine swimming a whole session like that. Dang. Gotta be in good shape for sure.
Came back to the house for ice cream, beer, and siesta. Stoked!
