Surf: Knee-Shoulder high.
Too beat for a triple session. Siesta for most of the afternoon and a few fun waves later in the day. Got a few big drops on some of the larger set waves.
Btw, Casa Rincon has a puppy: Milla. A-dorable.
Monday in Mexico – Early am
Surf: Knee-Waist high, glassy.
It’s still pretty much impossible to sleep. Even surfing three sessions yesterday I was still so excited to get back out onto an empty break with peeling waves and friends.
When the sun finally came up, I raced back out. Robert and I picked up lots of fun, sleepy little waves. Pretty much the best way to start the day.