Surf: Knee-Waist High, Clean.
After getting home from Santa Cruz around 11pm and exhausted, I didn’t really want to surf. But there’s this window before a storm when the winds are from the south and everything works out juuuuuust right…I can’t pass that up.
Cold, soft, but clean. I’ll take it.
Surf: Small, a little messy, but sunny and not too bad.
Ahh holiday surf. Normally I would NOT be trying to surf Santa Cruz, heck anywhere, on a holiday. Blam and Emily were already down there and the local surf sounded a bit ratty, so I pulled the trigger and headed down.
Not too bad, a little crowded but mostly beginners who were easily avoided. Fun little waves with lots of waiting. We camped out on a nice tiny peak with Emily to get her a few waves. She’s getting it! I love seeing new surfers super stoked about catching waves.
Bodysurfed a little bit. Surfed till my arms hurt and then met up with Matt for dinner and ice cream. Holiday shaped up pretty nice. 😀
Surf: Chest-Head high. Clean with some whomping closeout sets. South winds.
Woof! What a morning. South winds were doing their south winderly thing. Waves were way up in size from Wednesday morning. Lots of paddling to get my big foamy board through the inside, but worth it. Got one real fun racy left and lots of swooping rights.
Ran into Josh in the lot before paddling out. We haven’t surfed together in a year. Pretty fun being back out in the water again, especially now that I’ve had a year of practice and can go for some bigger waves. 😀
Chris snapped a few more nice photos:
Surf: Mellow, Waist-Chest high. Clean.
Yay for SC Thursdays. Started out at the hook. It was fun, but a little crowded on the inside. We paddled over to 38th where a fun, small little peak was breaking. Got some fun little rides in while Chris shot a little video and took some pics. 😀 Soooo stoked about the vid. Also saw a whale again. Nice!
Pics turned out pretty good, too! Here’s me on one ride. I tried to get out in front of a section in the second shot. Was hoping to get a cover up out of it or something. So close!
Thanks for the pics, Chris!
Surf: Knee-Chest High. Peeling. Soft but pretty fun.
Finally! My work schedule and the wind schedule aligned for a morning surf back at Lindy. Sooo much nicer than that first Saturday back. Those pre-rain south winds were lazily grooming the waves into fun little shoulders and the mellow swell was making bowling little bits and mini barrels.
One guy I was talking to was working on getting barreled. I tried for a little head dip, not quite close enough to the curl but still plenty fun. Wheeee.
Out before the rain.
Photo by Chris
Surf: Waist-Chest high. Peeling. Long lulls but lots of energy.
Nice south swell rolled in this week. Cowells was breaking sooo nicely. It was crowded for sure, but plenty fun. Got some nice long waves that really zipped on the outside and held up all the way through. Plenty of otters chilling in the lineup and a whale splashing around outside the kelp. Grabbed some hot chocolate, a pastry, and cruised on in to work.
Surf: Mixed up, closed out. Knee-Chest high. Cold. Bumpy!
After Santa Cruz’s mellow glassy welcome back, Linda Mar was a pretty abrupt change. Ouch. So much paddling and craziness. Got one long smooth left. Mostly hucked myself into closeouts. After one decent wave I decided to paddle in. Got caught up the angry inside chop for a while before finally free. Whew. I think Linda was maybe a little jealous I’d left her.
Photo by Chris
Surf: Mellow, Knee-Waist high. Glassy.
Ahh, back in cold water. Missing Mexico with all my heart but still feels good to be home. Surf was super mellow with long lulls. Got some nice little rides in.
Surf: Waist-Shoulder high+, glassy, long lulls, low and incoming tide.
Ah Mexico, thank you for everything.Thank you for nice waves, warm water, ukelele on the beach, more wonderful food than I could ever eat, mixes of frozen juice and tecate, lots of laughing, thanks for all it. I’ve had a wonderful time.
Many thanks to Ed for generously showing us around and patiently surfing with us stoked to the gills fools. Your support was much appreciated. I hope I can repay your generosity sometime.
For the last paddle out we hit Burros on the morning. It was glassy and beautiful, just a bit crowded. Waits were a little long, but the sets rolled in with plenty of great waves to pick off. Stefan got some nice bigger waves. I had one huge drop that just demolished me on the inside. Like la lancha, the left was much steeper and faster. I had to punch through a crashing section for one wave.
Caught one in for breakfast and just enough time to return our boards before the flight.
Mexico! So stoked!
Surf: waist high close outs, waist-shoulder high
Started as a blown out desperado session of waist high closeouts after many tecates. Despite strong offshore winds the heat lured me in. When Ed arrived the wind started to mellow and we hit Burros.
I blew my first five waves. Sigh. Too much tecate.
The waves and I both shaped up and I got some great rides in. It was a little crowded (can a single break really hold SIX stand up paddle boards?) but still lots of fun.
Got in another sunset before heading back to the house. They had made the most amazing feast of fish, octopus, veggies and rice. Just when I couldn’t possibly eat any more: ice cream. Amazing!
