Month: April 2011

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Saturday in Mexico – Late afternoon

Surf: Knee-Chest high. Windy, peeling.

Yaaaaay Mexico! Beyond stoked.

Muchos gracias to Ed for picking us up, arranging board rental, and being patient while Nicole and I ran all over the house checking out the rooms, the surf, the pool, the beach…

It took all of half a minute to go from airplane mode to surf mode and I was stoked and a half to get out into warm water. Sure it was windy, but the mellow waves were peeling in nice.

I got a full railed loggy monster 9’6 single fin that picked up those little waves nice an easy. Plenty of nice little rides for our first surf.

Let the vacationing begin!

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Stoked!


Photo by Chris.

Surf: Fun, glassy, 2-4ft with some bigger sets. Mellow.

What a morning! I’m still stoked.

Went in with low expectations. Higher tide, forecasts were all suggesting conditions would be “just okay.” Still, happy to get a change to surf Santa Cruz before work.

It turned out to be a really fun session. The waves were clean and had a nice little kick to them. Bright warm sun, blue blue water, and long peeling waves.

My first wave started out mellow and medium sized. As I completed my bottom turn I realized I was looking up at the lip. My mellow warm up wave was turning out to be a nice, peeling, substantial wave. So stoked. So much fun.

Got quite a few nice rides and some compliments from my friends. Spent the whole day beaming. Stoked!

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Sunny, Peeling, Out of the Wind

Surf: Knee-Waist high. Peeling.

Three years ago to the day I took my first surf class. 😀

I was one of those surf school kooks with the red rashguard on to warn people to keep a safe distance. Crazy to think that was 3 years ago. Thankfully those 3 years have been filled with lots of stoke, many great rides, lots of wipeouts, and fun people to surf with.

Lindy was not observing my surfbirthday and instead was a jumbled, howling wind mess. Headed down to the jetty in favor of small, fun little waves. Got some good little rides, some sunshine, and a little fun before heading to a client meeting. Yay.

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Board Meeting

Surf: 1-2ft and 2-4ft. Mellow SW swell. Light Winds.

One of the projects I’m on involves frequent trips south of San Francisco and another needed me to swing by Palo Alto today. It’s been a negative low tide and nearly flat locally the last few days, time for some pre-work team surf in SC. 😀

Nicole, Chris and I paddled out at the Cowells side of indicators where Darren had already been catching a few of the small slow waves occasionally rolling in.

I got some nice long ones on the super mellow little waves, but the crowd was growing and the guys had their eye on some waves further west.

Paddled over to find the break to be still mellow, but bigger and with a punch at the end. I got a few really fun drops and enjoyed the sun.

Pastries, then off to client meetings. Excellent team work.

Meeting summary: Fun, chill waves were ridden.
Next steps: schedule more team board meetings.

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Fog

Surf: Soft 2-3ft waves. Low low LOW tide.

Woke up terribly late, but managed to get down just in time for a few fogged in waves. I couldn’t see the lineup from my car. I couldn’t see the water’s edge from my car. I couldn’t see the lineup from the beach, or the beach from the lineup. Super moody.

Plenty of fun little waves despite the crazy low tide. Drifted a full tour of half the beach in the fog.

Chris got to try out the new big board today. Man is that a big board.

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Cleaning up

Surf: Cleaner, 2-4ft.

It’s been so windblown and meh here that it was really nice to see a “clean” day. Not perfect, sure, but rideable. I got lots of fun drops in, cheating some closeouts a little.

Little bit of sun and some light offshores. A bunch of balloons floated by.

Chris’s delamed board finally gave in to entropy and crunched under a larger cleanup wave. Poor board. Cut the session short.

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Double surf check

Surf Check 1: Blech. High tide, blowing winds, no organization. Messy, mushy, crumbly, swamped.

Chris got an emergency client call and headed back to the city. Caught up with Andrew for a bit but what not at all inspired to get in that slop by myself. Fun watching the dogs run around on the beach a while.

Surf Check 2: Not much better. Low tide. I made every stop on the way down. Some places were looking slightly peely, but all around the surf was windblown. Surfed the small waves at the jetty a bit. I’m kind of in a funk, workwise, surfwise, socially… The grungy surf isn’t helping. Blew out some cutbacks and cut things a little too close with a grom. Hoping for some calm surf soon.

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Drop and Wash

Surf: Closed out. Messy.

Moments of glimmering hopefulness and long grueling spans of closeouts. Waist-Shoulder high corners looked obtainable, but mostly mushy to pitching to mushy to pitching waves. Chris snagged some nice ones. I grumbled about picking my less foamy board and spent the session hacking up bits of seaweed after drop and wash rides.

I was a mess out there. I was not digging throwing myself into closeouts. I got lots of hard fast bottom turns followed by a wall of mucky water smashing me unforgivingly. I had seaweed in my hair, in my eyes, blech.

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Jetty Social Hour

Surf: Small, clean.

LM was looking pretty sloppy so we went on a SMC break tour. Not a lot was happening out there. I was sporting some awesomely fluffy slept on hair and went for the paddle out anyway despite tiny tiny waves. Was actually pretty fun in a small wave laughing at yourself kind of way. Saw Chris steal quite a few long rides from those hungry looking knee high closeouts. He got the wave of the day for sure.

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Soft Close Outs

Surf: Little lumpy with shoulders holding up.

Sunny, shifty and a bit lumpy out there. Mix of knee to chest high waves. Some nice clean little corners for fun long rides and plenty of slow soft closeouts. Handful of folks out. Was shaping up a little with the tide change. North current on the inside, south on the outside.